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Weekend Escape to Bangkok

The prestigious Travel+Leisure magazine didn’t recently adjudge Bangkok as being the best city in the world without good reason. While Bangkok is big, fast and crowded it’s also invigorating and full of life. It appeals to those who want to immerse themselves in Thai life and enjoy some delicious food and fabulous shopping.

Like many Asian cities, Bangkok has many façades and, for some, one is that it’s busy, tiring, hot and much too fast. For others, it’s the madness of Bangkok that’s so appealing. Its other magnetic qualities include the delicious food (both local and a smorgasbord of international cuisines), a wide range of accommodation options from budget to super deluxe, a vast array of shopping opportunities, excellent bars, fascinating tourist attractions, vibrant local markets, improving public transport and cheap flights from within the region.

Sleepless In Bangkok With over 12 million residents in Bangkok there’s not too much that Bangkok doesn’t offer tourists. The city never seems to go to sleep so you can cram in a lot in a few days. There are uniquely Thai attractions, such as Buddhist temples or wats as they are known, tuk tuks (covered motorbikes on steroids for quick trips around the city), Muay Thai exhibitions, artistic handicrafts and the famous massage. First time visitors should visit the Grand Palace, Wat Arun and Wat Phra Kaew down near the banks of the Chao Phraya River, but be warned that it can get very crowded, especially on weekends. You could spend a day here seeing many things Thai, as well as Buddhism, in action.

The Chao Phraya River flows through the city and many of the city’s premier hotels line the river’s eastern banks. One of the best ways to discover this part of Bangkok is to catch boats of the Chao Phraya Express that roar up and down the river stopping at strategic locations along the way. From the city, catch the Bangkok Transit System (BTS) train to Saphan Taksin Station and walk down to Central Pier to catch the ferry. Travel on the ferry for as long as you like (30 minutes is probably adequate), get off and catch another ferry back down the river and get off at places of interest, such as the Grand Palace. Here you will notice long-tail boats moored along the riverbank that are available for charter up the klongs (canals) that radiate from the main river. Floating markets still exist along some back klongs but those that you will be taken to are mostly for tourists so expect to pay tourist prices for souvenirs.

Local Fare Naturally, Thai food is found everywhere with the street food being cheap, tasty and healthy. One of the best fine dining restaurants in which to appreciate authentic Thai food is the Blue Elephant (www.blueelephant.com), which is located in a stately residence opposite Surasak BTS Station. Dine on dishes like mee krob boran and tuna carpaccio. Guests can visit the restaurant to dine or to learn how to cook some exciting Thai dishes. The latter provides a new and interesting activity while on your Bangkok holiday. The school has fully equipped facilities and classes normally commence with an early morning visit to the markets with the chef.

The food court in Siam Paragon Shopping Centre is more upmarket than most others in Bangkok with lots of local and western concepts. One of the great things about food in Bangkok is that international cuisines are well represented, so if you have had enough Thai, check out western styles in Rossini’s (Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit), French at Reflexions (Plaza Athénée Hotel) and Red Sky at 55 Restaurant (Centara Grand and Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld) with its Martini Bar and wine angels who swing from trapeze wires to source wines housed in huge glassed cellars.

Out On The Town

While one shouldn’t travel just to drink, it’s nice to know that beer in Bangkok is cheap (try Singha, Chang and Kloster). Wine isn’t so cheap due to high taxes, so seek out some interesting local wines (yes, made in Thailand!), such as those from PB Estate. Bangkok is one of the greatest Asian cities for a night out with several unique outdoor venues high up in skyscrapers. Check out Sirocco, Distel Sky Bar (in the Dome at State Tower), Vertigo and Grill Moon Bar (Banyan Tree Bangkok) and Red Sky on the 55th floor of the Centara Grand at CentralWorld. All are open to the elements and, on a fine tropical night, the atmosphere is without equal. Sunday evenings are best spent in The Living Room of the Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit for some soothing jazz and their buffet brunch.

Stay In Style

Choose from some of the best hotels in Asia like the luxurious Vie Hotel Bangkok (www. viehotelbangkok.com), which is a member of Accor’s exclusive M Gallery collection. Dine at Vie Dining or enjoy poolside cocktails with some of Bangkok’s best views at Vie 39. Some other excellent luxury hotels are Plaza Athénée (www. plazaatheneebangkok.com) where the spa is an essential stop between shopping forays, and the Sofitel Silom Bangkok (www.sofitel.com) with its exciting restaurant and bar concept V9 Wine Bar & Restaurant located on the rooftop and serving well priced wines to pair with innovative French cuisine. Sofitel guests experience contemporary luxury with a distinctly French art de vivre while the Anne Sémonin Spa within the hotel is one of the most relaxing in the city.

Market Mania

Bangkok has become one of the region’s great shopping paradises with prices offering some of the best value in the region. Young Thai designers set the trend while others find it’s easier to rip off overseas labels. Siam Paragon, CentralWorld, MBK, Siam Square, Siam Discovery Centre and Gaysorn Plaza are all excellent shopping malls located along Rama 1 Road. Chatuchak weekend markets (better known to the locals as “JJ” markets) are a must and, while they get hot and crowded, the bargains make up for any discomfort. With over 8,000 stalls, almost anything and everything is for sale. Catch the BTS to Mor Chit Station and follow the crowds, as they’re all heading to the markets.

While most visitors to Bangkok find it intense and invigorating, it’s also interactive and addictive.

My Myanmar Trip

This is what happens when I have a 6-hour layover. I wrote down all of my insider-information from traveling around Myanmar and figured it might be helpful to others if I posted it. So here it is.  Myanmar is changing really quick, which means that guidebooks, blogs, and other sources I referenced before my travels filled my mind with information that is now outdated. The notes I’ve gathered here are accurate as of December 2013 and are geared toward the high-level planning of a trip.

Why you should go right now

You know that picture hanging in your grandma’s kitchen of what your hometown used to look like before WalMart, Mcdonalds, and paved roads came in? Have you ever wanted to travel back in time to see what life was like back then? In Myanmar that “back then” is right now. Before 2010 the country was isolated for nearly 50 years which means it’s still the 1960’s here. It’s not going to last very long though–affordable cell phones were introduced recently leading to many people now having a phone, internet, although slow and unreliable—works, satellite TV is getting more popular with the increasing dependability of the Each issue we deliver 10,000 copies to a Targeted Readership of people who respond to advertising. These readers – your customers – can get their Free Copy in Yangon at: 75 Restaurants 90 Hotels 76 Coffeeshops/Cafes 33 Bars Business and First Class travellers are well educated individuals with high spending capacity. They can read their Free Copy at airport lounges in Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Hong Kong, Korea, Vietnam and Manila where we distribute 1,000 free copies. www.facebook.com/TheMyanmarInsider www.twitter.com/ MyanmarInsider www.myanmarinsider.com Contact Details: Travis Okar Swe • Thuta (media2@myanmarinsider.com) Office Tel: 01-526165 • Phyo Naing Win (helpdesk@myanmarinsider.com) Unequalled Circulation electric grid, new shopping centers are starting to pop up, foreign investment is pouring in from all quarters, and Western styles are starting to replace traditional wear.

Why you should’t go

If you’re looking for the type of vacation where you relax, hang out at the beach, maybe see a Ping-Pong show and travel comfortably over well-constructed and efficient infrastructure, you’re looking for somewhere less interesting… like neighbouring Thailand. Since tourism was banned for decades in Myanmar, there is a distinct lack of tourist infrastructure. Which means that travel can be inefficient, uncomfortable and confusing. This is the flip side of going to a place where there are very few tourists–if it was comfortable and easy, the place would be overrun by pork-bellied, camera wielding, obnoxious and annoying Gap-Years like Thailand is. The high barrier to entry means that for the most part, you’ll have many tourist-type places all to yourself.

Don’t rely on internet and guidebooks

Myanmar is changing really fast and the internet, blogs, and travel guides can’t keep up. This makes planning especially difficult because there is loads of outdated information out there getting mixed in with the good intel.

A few things that you should know.
  1. Since the lifting of economic sanctions, you can use your foreign bank card to access the local currency, Kyat, from ATM
  2. There is no USD$10 “departure tax” when you are leaving the airport
  3. You don’t have to pay for accommodation with USD, but it does them a favour if you do because of inflation issues. The only situation I came across where I had pay in USD is when you take the train
  4. USD bills do not have to be 2006 notes and newer – just clean and in very good condition
  5. No one pays attention to the serial number on USD notes anymore
  6. The black market exchange rate is not the way to get your Kyat currency anymore. The white market rate at the airport is now just as good as what the black market can give you, but without the notorious mind-games and magic trick maneuvers those black market guys will play on you
  7. Always buy bottled water and never drink water directly from the taps as its not safe
  8. You should be aware that most roads and pavements, as well as public transport are generally in bad condition, so be very careful, especially at night
Enjoying Myanmar

Generally speaking, Myanmar is a very safe place when it comes to personal security. Yangon is widely considered to be one of Asia’s safest bigger cities.

You will see many young boys in monks attire walking around the streets with bowls held out looking for money. A few spare small denomination notes is always a nice gesture to make and goes a long way.

There is also the chance of being approached by money changers and vendors trying to sell you their wares, but this is normally conducted in a good-natured manner. On the whole, the vast majority of people that you come across in Myanmar will be very friendly and genuinely want to be helpful.

Its not advisable for foreigners to eat from the street food stalls as hygiene may not be up to standard. But not too worry. Yangon is now full of good coffee shops, bars, restaurants and hotels.

Hilux ‘line-car’ buses to be replaced on Rangoon streets

The Rangoon divisional government has announced that the Hilux pickup trucks used for public transportation in the former Burmese capital will be taken off the streets at the end of February when they will be replaced by modern mini-buses. The Yangon Division Central Supervisory Committee for Motor Vehicles and Vessels proposed replacing the pickup trucks, popularised in the 1980s, due to their lack of safety and high rate of traffic accidents.

Rice crises looming

Due to last year flooding rice production in Myanmar could be reduced by up to 40 percent in some states. The rice harvests in the states of Mon and Karen are already down by over 40 percent this year compared to 2012-13. Local farmers along the Done-Tha-Mi river report that the rainy season flooding last year is likely to cause severe rice shortages in the region.

Open market rice prices are high this year, but farmers say they cannot take advantage of the prices because of low production, most of which will be used to feed their families.

However, US Department of Agriculture projections for Burmese rice production remains unchanged. According to the USDA, Burma’s rice production in 2013-14 is expected to increase to around 11 million tons, up about 3 percent from around 10.6 million tons in 2012-13.

Consumption in Burma is estimated at around 10.25 million tons in 2013-14, and exports are projected to reach around 750,000 tons.

Blooming in the Face of World Gloom

Its easy looking back, but there are always classic lessons to be learned, 1929 was not a good year for investors and it took a decade for the primitive wheels of commerce to grind back towards profitability. The capitalist cart had just begun rolling smoothly when Mr. Hitler and his gang of filibusters sprang into view, spilled the beans and spoiled the broth, and dumped the world into a dizzy turmoil. In the back woods, Wall Street was a prime victim.

In 2008 it was the turn of Wall Street (the bastion of ‘financial security’) to lead the charge down the dungeon of capitalist make believe, and to upset the shiny apple cart, and dump the world in a credit crunch par excellence. In 2010 the USA and their European allies still flounder in this dirty bathwater. A dark and murky cloud drifts aimlessly in a financial playground, where smoke screens have become all the rage, in an effort to smooth over the turmoil, and disguise the oozing river for near ‘bankruptcy’ that flows as large as the Yangtze Kiang through the financial streets of the old World order. Back upstream the 3 gorges dam seems to do little to stem the flow of financial tears in the West.

But in the East it is a different story. Asia is plainly and mysteriously on another financial planet. Feng Shui; a definitive mindset; a shiny set of financial wheels; and a more respectful rung on the economic ladder, has actually boosted the Asian economies.

At the heart of the matter is that new chestnut, China, somehow symbolized by the gleam and glitz of Pudong’s Pearl Tower, dominating the skyline like a rocket ship about to launch. The fact of the matter is that it has already taken to the skies, through the buzzing airways of commerce, industry, trade and finance, supported by infrastructure and what the West, in their time of despair, might like to class as economic skullduggery.

The proof is in the pudding, and 2009 eventually saw a gigantic turnaround with some remarkable results in Asia. At the beginning of 2009 most investors were bent over and creaking in shock, sourly beaten by hideous falls in equity markets worldwide. While cash was being stored under larger mattresses at home, well away from the collapsed banking system, Asian equity markets took off a pace and flourished in equity outer space.

Those investment funds lumped aptly under the grand title of “Emerging Markets”, or fine tuned under the title of a “BRIC” fund, have been raking in the profits. The question is – how much money came out early enough from under the mattress and was Asian invested?

The Frenchman Voltaire in the 1700s Blooming in the Face of World Gloom said, “Is there anyone so wise as to learn by the experience of others?” Yet in this day and age, and in the case of the Asian financial market boom in 2009, who was there (alongside you) to reap the rewards?

Everyone knows that when things have taken a big dip, that is the time to buy. After all as Ambrose Redmoon succinctly put it “Courage is not the absence of fear, but rather the judgment that something else is more important that fear.” Naturally we all leapt into the Asian markets and took that plunge and made a killing.

This is all backed up by the words of TS Eliot who said, “Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far one can go.” You and I were ready on the sidelines to cash in on the cash cow, because, as George Bernard Shaw said, “The people who get on this world are the people who get up and look for the circumstances they want, and if they can’t find them make them.” At the end of the day William Shakespeare said it all with the simple words, “The readiness is all.”

The investment house Jardine Fleming, have a Fund in Korea that made 66.7% in 2012. Their Thailand Fund made 84% over the same timeline, while in Taiwan their fund creamed in a growth of 64%. They are a British company who delisted on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange around the time of British ‘handover’ of the territory to China, when China spoke of ‘150 years of shame’ while Britain ruled Hong Kong. Jardine Fleming were picked out by the Chinese as example of this shame, amid a flurry of mainland accusations of being linked up with the Opium Wars, in the days when the British rulers issued Government licenses to trade in Opium in another century.

Meanwhile investing in most of Europe and the USA is a bit like pouring tea from a chocolate teapot. South America adds the B to BRIC funds with Brazil, and with South America comes under the lucid umbrella of “Emerging Markets”, and has also managed impressive results recently.

This is all very well, but what of the future? If you still fall in to line and believe in the old world order, then invest in USA and Western Europe, but beware that this investment flame might be getting as much protection for your capital as using a chocolate fire guard. There again shares in Kraft might get you a boost with Cadbury. The buzzwords still have to be “Emerging Markets”, while the downturn in 2009 with the Hedge Fund industry and in Commodity Funds is being talked back up right now, profitability is forecast for 2014 and beyond.

It’s a complicated brew. But for those who made it in 2009 in Asia it is time to sit back on the brand new yacht, and enjoy the new beach cottage.

Perhaps it is also time to take more cash from the stash beneath the mattress and trickle a dollar or three into those “Emerging Markets”, and place a wholesome wad into agricultural Commodities… after all, half of the world lives on rice. Put your money where your mouth is, and invest in this fuel that drives the workers of the “emerging markets” – after all rice is Asia.

But the future signs are still only for the brave at heart. “Is there anyone so wise as to learn by the experience of others?” The advice is simple, don’t fret, take the plunge, for rather the judgment that something else is more important than fear.”

Indeed, its easy looking back, especially after the success of investing last year when the signs were obvious, and the lessons worked well when put the test. Asia is definitively blooming in the face of the world gloom.

Easier to obtain a passport

Passport issuing centers were opened in 15 regions and states in addition to the existing offices in Yangon and Mandalay. An eligible citizen can get a passport within two weeks instead of 21 days in the past at the cost of 25,000 Kyats ($25).

In the past, obtaining or renewing a passport was a complex procedure and many applications were arbitrarily rejected.

If the purpose of travel is for medical care, a passport will be issued within three to five days

The $1.145 Million Rolex

Luxury timepiece aficionados were shocked late last year when an extremely rare Rolex made in 1950 was sold for more than four times the estimated auction price and in doing so set a new world record. The sale at Christie’s New York on Dec. 17, catalogued a stainless steel Ref. 8171 Rolex and it sold for $1.145 million against a pre-sale estimate of $300,000 – $350,000 and was the subject of a fierce bidding war that spanned across four countries.

The Luxury timepiece, previously nicknamed the “Padellone” (“Big Frying Pan” in Italian), earned itself a new moniker—“Sleeping Beauty”—on account of the surprise result. One of the most complex Rolex watches ever made, its predominant feature is a triple date and moonphase display. Only 1,000 similar watches were ever made, but until the Christie’s sale the model wasn’t in the same league as the Ref. 4113, an oversized stainless steel split seconds chronograph made in 1942 that became the world’s most expensive Rolex ever when it sold at auction for $1.16 million  in Geneva last May.

The auction was “a most memorable grand finale to the most successful year of watch auctions ever orchestrated by any auction house in history,” notes Aurel Bacs, Christie’s’ International Head of Watches. “Savvy bidders from around the world gathered to compete fiercely for a beautifully curated, intelligently estimated, and well researched selection of high-quality collectors watches.” The sale brought in a total of $12,926,175, selling 91 percent by lot and 95 percent by value.

United nations invests in Myanmar’s young entrepreneurs

A new presidential initiative to create jobs for young people and investment opportunities in Myanmar’s IT sector was recently announced by the United Nations Economic and Social Commission for Asia and the Pacific (ESCAP), during the Second Myanmar Development Cooperation Forum in Nay Pyi Taw.

The first phase of the Information Technology Capacity Development Programme, a collaboration between ESCAP, Infosys, the Government of India, and the Government of Myanmar, will see 25 outstanding IT engineers and entrepreneurs from Myanmar undergoing 12 weeks of intensive training in India in core competencies of software development, which in turn will prepare them to work in any major e-government initiative or global IT company operating in Myanmar.

“In his historic 2012 address to the Union Assembly, the United Nations Secretary-General pointed to the need for job creation, poverty alleviation, and greater development assistance to Myanmar,” explained Dr. Noeleen Heyzer, Under-Secretary-General of the United Nations and Executive Secretary of ESCAP, in her address to the forum.

“ESCAP has worked closely with the Myanmar Government to strengthen the capacity of small and medium enterprises to help meet these challenges, especially through the empowerment of women and youth. I am very pleased, therefore, to announce this joint united nations invests in Myanmar’s young entrepreneurs US$1 million programme for Myanmar’s young entrepreneurs, which will help the country and its people leapfrog into the global knowledge economy, building cutting-edge skills and competitiveness in these areas.

“I am doubly happy to say that 23 of the 25 participants of Phase 1, selected entirely on merit, are young women, and I wish them and this initiative every success,” said Dr. Heyzer, who also met with President U Thein Sein in Myanmar today to discuss the initiative and further support by ESCAP for Myanmar’s reform process.

ESCAP and its partners are developing specialized training modules, which are in high demand in the global IT industry, for more than 100 young engineers and entrepreneurs who will be up-skilled at the Infosys training centre. Phase I of the initiative will be launched next week in Mysore, India.

Building the skills and competitiveness in these areas will go a long way not only for employment creation in the high-end IT sector and entrepreneurship development, but also for building ‘the critical mass’ to attract investments from the Global IT companies, including Infosys.

“This presidential initiative is an important step towards further integrating Myanmar into the global knowledge economy,” said Dr. Heyzer. “Initiatives such as these will assist Myanmar to more fully integrate with the ASEAN Economic Community and to move towards graduation from the least developed category by 2020.”

Who Will Drive Forward Myanmar’s Auto Market?

There was once a time in Yangon when the city’s arteries were not bursting with vehicles desperately slugging it out over a few inches of tarmac. As the three year anniversary of Thein Sein’s role as President approaches in April, of the raft of economic and political reforms implemented by him and his government, it is the utter surge in the amount of cars on Yangon’s streets that is most obvious to the most casual observer within the city.

While other major cities within the country have not been unaffected by the increase in car imports, those city’s residents have long been able to commute via the much nimbler option of motorbikes, something denied to Yangonians – in 2003, the government banned the use of motorbikes within the city’s limits and, as yet, there are no signs that that ban will be lifted – forcing many to cram into busy, often decrepit buses and trains or rely on uneconomical taxis.

During the country’s military rule, the import tax on automobiles was so high, and import rules so complicated, that vehicles were the domain of only the country’s most elite – in fact, Myanmar’s automobile sector draws many parallels with the telecoms sector, which has been seen as a key indicator that the government is genuine in its plan for reforms. According to some reports, in previous times, second-hand cars could reach $20,000, with that figure dropping to around $5,000 as car imports become more affordable amidst economic reforms.

Since 2011, the government has changed auto import policy on more than half a dozen occasions, the most notable coming in September 2011 with the introduction of the “new for old” policy, whereby cars over 20 years old could easily be replaced by newer models (those less than five years old).

If on an anecdotal level the policy changes have led to an increase in numbers, then the data supports this trend too. According to data from the Road Transportation Administration Department (RTAD), total vehicle registration within Myanmar reached 3.6 million (86 percent of which is motorbikes) as of July 2013, up from 2 million at the end of 2010, before the shift in policy began. Additionally motorbikes, so popular in all major areas outside of central Yangon, continue to see an increase in sales, with a rise of eight to 10 percent per annum according to the data.

Much like the potential offered in practically, all of the industries that have opened up in-line with the “new” Myanmar, multinational giants within the automobile industry have been quick to take advantage in a country that offers huge economic potential in a range of areas due to its large, generally well-educated population and important strategic location between India and China.

One of the most notable early-movers was American giant Ford, which partnered with local RMA Group and Capital Star Group, to hoist its iconic blue, oval symbol above its Yangon showroom, which opened in October. Other American firms now operating within Myanmar include Chevrolet and General Motors, while popular German brands Mercedes-Benz who recently opened a new showroom and Volkswagen have taken notice, the latter of which teamed up with local company Yoma Strategic Holdings, which is operated by Burmese-Chinese behemoth Serge Pun.

However, it is the automakers from East Asia that appear to be best prepared to take advantage of the continued growth in Myanmar’s auto industry. According to the data from RTAD, more than 80 percent of the registered vehicles within Myanmar are from Japanese or Chinese companies, with Nissan recently unveiling plans for a branch to manufacture its Sunny brand in Bago Region, just outside Yangon, with operations planned to begin in 2015. Meanwhile, Toyota recently opened its second service centre in Yangon last year and is planning to open a Mandalay service centre in the near future.

Low-cost Chinese maker Chery – a popular brand in a country where worker salaries are often less than $100 per month – has commenced work on what it estimates to be 3,000 to 5,000 vehicles per year, while India’s Tata opened its first Yangon showroom in 2013.

International players have timed their involvement in Myanmar well, observers say. An industry report by global consulting firm Frost & Sullivan, entitled ‘360 Degree Perspective of the Automotive Market in Myanmar’ estimated that Myanmar’s auto market is likely to grow by 7.8 percent per annum to 2019, fuelled by what it says will be a growing economy, improved infrastructure and improved integration with ASEAN, with particular reference to the ASEAN Economic Community, an EU-style bloc between the member states expected to begin in 2015.

“However, factors such as unpredictable regulatory changes, high car prices, an under-developed auto service market and inadequate road infrastructure might hinder the potential growth,” warned Dushyant Sinha, associate director for Frost & Sullivan’s Asia Pacific office.

The report added that the growth would be dominated by companies from China and Korea who would benefit with their affordable prices and smaller engine sizes when compared with their Japanese rivals. The report also predicted that companies from the US and Europe would struggle to grab too big a market share as spare parts and after sale service support are still limited within the formerly isolated nation

Foreign Investment in Myanmar

During the ongoing Lower House Parliament session, Deputy Minister of National Planning and Economic Development Dr. Daw Khin San Yi said that the country received a total of $34.2 billion worth of foreign investment during the last 25 years. This amount came from at least 25 countries and different regions, and was used in 381 projects of 11 sectors. With the investment, more than 300,000 job opportunities were provided for Myanmar citizens at the end of 2013. A year after it reopened, Myanmar introduced a foreign investment policy in late 2012 which replaced the 1988 law to help attract more foreign investment. The new law enables foreigners to have full ownership of their businesses in Myanmar, or to facilitate joint venture operations with Myanmar on a mutually-agreed ratio of investment. While these premises are very appealing, local economists say that the continually rising prices of real estate could pose as a problem for interested foreign investors.

As per the International Monetary Fund (IMF)’s Myanmar Economic Indicators, the country’s gross domestic product (GDP) grew by 5.5 percent in 2013 with consumer price rise reaching 7.3 percent. It is projected that Myanmar’s GDP will rise by 6.2 percent in 2014, with 6.6 percent consumer price inflation.

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